"We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open." ~ Jawaharal Nehru

Saturday, October 13, 2012

The next best thing...

That must be Kapit... the capital of Kapit division, where all the big government offices are. When I first arrived, I had to get myself there to report to the District Health Officer (DHO). So after doing the necessary, I decided to stay back to explore the town abit.

Kapit is located 1 hour up river from Song. All the express boat from Sibu ultimately ends up in Kapit as their final port of call. Unfortunately, not all the express boats do a pit stop in Song so if you're coming my way, make sure you don't take the Sibu-Kapit direct. If you accidentally do, wait an hour or so and come back down to Song.

This way to Song or Kapit

In terms of population, Kapit has twice the ammount of folks Song has. Approximately 60,200 according to the 2002 census (figures plucked from Wikepedia). From what I heard, Kapit has lots going on. In fact, the Sibu folks call this place "LITTLE HONG KONG" and many come over just for the weekend in search of exotic food (think jungle produce) and booze. There's plenty to choose from - tuak, ijok, langkau, cap ah pek and a whole selection of duty free beer (smuggled in thru Miri) from Korea, Poland & Russia. These are brands I've never heard of - Zorok beer anyone? No wonder my FMS friend here mentioned that lotsa her patients have sky-high TG levels.

Not too sure if there's women in the equation.


Anyhow, the old boarding house where Pits and I stayed when we visited Kapit in 1999 is still standing. This was the place without curtains, so we had to use our parios to cover the windows and the bedsheets were more than a little threadbare. This was also where in the middle of the night a little old Iban man came knocking... "Ada amoi kah?" Anyway, you get the drift right?  

Pits, remember this place?

So far, this place hasn't changed much. Still same-same from what I remember from 1999. Old building are getting older. The market is still a hive of busy activity. Airport & airstrip has gone so derelict it is now a jogging track! Robert Mayau https://www.facebook.com/robert.mayau (whom we met while chilling at the wharf in 1999) still owns a little tattoo parlor in Kenyalang Square even though his skill and artwork using the body as a canvas has seen him rise to international fame. Probably the only thing that's different now is the brand spanking new wharf, the presence of 3 different banks and daily traffic jams caused by the lack of parking lots. Most of the middle class here own pick-up trucks and cars. The terrain around Kapit is hilly and most of the housing estates are away from the town. The town dies down by 4-5pm and all activity moves to the new township located about 10 minutes. Out there, there's dangdut joints, karaokes and even a restaurant selling pork chop! (which was worth every cent I paid - yummy and large helpings). 

Kapit is like this frontier town and many are seeking new opportunities here. I saw 2 Pakistanis play cricket in a vacant lot. Struck up a conversation with them - seems their boss, a Pakistani owns 4 shops in Kapit. 2 Shah Rukh Khan Furniture & Carpet Store, Kedai Runcit Shah Rukh Khan and Restoran Shah Rukh Khan. Ahhhh... for the love of Bollywood!

Here's a tour of Kapit...

Tempat melepak - Kapit Town Square

Gelangang Kenyalang
Hawker centre (roti canai goreng found here)
and Robert Mayau's tattoo parlour

Teresang Market
Lotsa weird & wonderful to be found here

Construction in progress
A behemoth in the making

Fuel up

Traffic jam? More like a boat jam!

Kapit's one and only fast food outlet - SUGAR BUN

Kitschy toys


  1. Best thing in Song is the internet. Glad to be able to connect with you via this blog. Keep up this good pastime.
    Count me in if anyone is visiting you. Hope to share a bit of your lifestyle.

  2. My folks are coming early Nov. When are you?